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Angry Wind: Through Muslim Black Africa by Truck, Bus, Boat, and Camel

por Jeffrey Tayler

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1367200,556 (3.72)3
Hailed by Bill Bryson and the New York Times Book Review as a rising star among travel writers, Jeffrey Tayler penetrates one of the most isolated, forbidding regions on earth--the Sahel. This lower expanse of the Sahara, which marks the southern limit of Islam's reach in West and Central Africa, boasts such mythologized places as Mopti and Timbuktu, as well as Africa's poorest countries, Chad and Niger. In parts of the Sahel, hard-line Sharia law rules and slaves are still traded. Racked by lethal harmattan winds, chronic civil wars, and grim Islamic fundamentalism, it is not the ideal place for a traveler with a U.S. passport. Tayler finds genuine danger in many guises, from drunken soldiers to a thieving teenage mob. But he also encounters patience and generosity of a sort found only in Africa. Traveling overland by the same rickety means used by the local people--tottering, overfilled buses, bush taxis with holes in the floor, disgruntled camels--he uses his fluency in French and Arabic (the region's lingua francas) to connect with them. Tayler is able to illuminate the roiling, enigmatic cultures of the Sahel as no other Western writer could.… (mais)
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I am always reading about the journeys of foreigners deliberately visiting war zones because, as they say, they've "always wanted to visit the area". Never mind that the country in question is under rebel attack or that the natives hate "you people". With the help of drivers, translators, and fixers, these fearless authors describe how they reluctantly hand over bribes along with precious passports, visas, and other important documents as if they trained a lifetime for such a vulnerable event. I am always reading from the perspective of the cavalier authors who have to wait for permissions to be granted, roadblocks and barriers to be cleared, bribes to be bestowed upon the greedy; all to be allowed safe passage. These people who somehow just know things will work out in their favor. I am never on the other side where the viewpoint is of the bandit, the enemy, or the political bigwig with all the power and hatred to let a traveler pass. However, I thoroughly Tayler's description of getting past these same people. Some of the episodes are funny. As an aside, I loved the white-out people. Dab, dab, dab.
Tayler has a keen eye for society, no matter how archaic. The tradition of slavery: the Bellas being captive but not. Female circumcision as a tradition of misconception that cannot be logically argued away. The varying cultures make everyone suspicious of one another. I was relived when Tayler recognized he couldn't change these cultures, but he argued against them just the same.
Confessional: an army of people helped Tayler cross five countries. I was pleased when he recognized all the people who had helped him as kind and generous. ( )
  SeriousGrace | Jun 28, 2022 |
A Lot Left Out of Some Tough Travels

"Angry Wind" is a brief travelogue of Jeffrey Tayler's trip to Chad, Nigeria, Niger, and Mali. While there are tourist sites in some of the countries, such as markets and mosques, Tayler spends much of his energy struggling with the lack of infrastructure. Roads, hotels, public transportation, and government services are few and far between. In a convenience for the "plot" of the book - Tayler's hardships - he neglected to discuss his stays with ambassadors and government officials that are very briefly mentioned in the acknowledgements section.

Chad, where Tayler's trip begins receives the most attention. Tayler spends a great deal of time describing the dirt tracks which serve as the highway between cities. The conflict between Muslims and Christians in Nigeria also receives some attention. Tayler flies through Niger and Mali, neither of which got as many details. Most of the book and most of the interactions with people come from the local guides that he hires.

Tayler comments on the tension between West Africa and West Europe during the build-up to the Iraq War. As was true at the time, the build-up was so transparent that West Africans commented on Bush's aggressiveness, often making it a point to say that they thought Bush was wrong but that they knew Tayler had nothing to do with the war. In addition, Tayler makes some general comments about the civil and military service in the four countries he traveled to, although most of the specific comments are made about Chad and Nigeria. To fill space in the conclusion, he makes a wonderful commentary on how Western aide and trade do little to develop the countries other than by providing a means for corruption and trade dependence. Rather than being an afterthought, I wish that commentary had been discussed more as he was witnessing it.

The book reads very quickly, even though Tayler's choices in vocabulary are sometimes a little showy. Although he doesn't give a timeline, I think this trip must have been just three or four weeks.

I am very jealous of Jeffrey Tayler and travel writers like him. To spend life traveling, even in the difficult situations presented in this book, must be a dream. ( )
  mvblair | Aug 9, 2020 |
E’ un libro di viaggi. Di uno straordinario viaggio nel Sahel, la parte meridionale del Sahara. Africa povera, poverissima, divisa tra l’estremismo islamico, portato dagli arabi conquistatori, e la cultura africana delle tribù. Africa dove soffia l’Harmattan, il rabbioso vento del deserto che dà il titolo al libro. Viaggio sui dromedari, sugli autobus, su macchine improbabili e treni impossibili. Viaggio nella burocrazia dei confini africani, tracciati con il righello da noi europei. Viaggio tra le tribù e le etnie, tra le culture diverse che originano conflitti terribili. Viaggio di un americano nell’Islam dell’infibulazione, con continui riferimenti all’odio per Bush da parte del mondo islamico. Viaggio vero, originale, cruento e straordinario. Traduzione semplice e diretta. Lettura appassionante. Si sente il vento caldo dell’Africa che gira le pagine di questo bel libro. ( )
  grandeghi | Apr 15, 2019 |
Hats off to Tayler for even thinking up this crazy idea; a bonus hats off for how he managed it, switching between English, French and Arabic as he travelled through Saharan Africa. Brilliant. ( )
  soylentgreen23 | Jul 3, 2016 |
This is a trip I would only have taken by book. Tayler travels to the sub-Sahara region of Africa, an area I knew little about. During his travels, he meets ignorance and tradition head on. Poverty, disease, and filth abound. And Tayler seems little reason to hope for a better future. All in all, a grim journey. Told compellingly, however…I am now off to find Tayler’s earlier book, a book in which he travels to north Africa. ( )
1 vote debnance | Jan 29, 2010 |
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Hailed by Bill Bryson and the New York Times Book Review as a rising star among travel writers, Jeffrey Tayler penetrates one of the most isolated, forbidding regions on earth--the Sahel. This lower expanse of the Sahara, which marks the southern limit of Islam's reach in West and Central Africa, boasts such mythologized places as Mopti and Timbuktu, as well as Africa's poorest countries, Chad and Niger. In parts of the Sahel, hard-line Sharia law rules and slaves are still traded. Racked by lethal harmattan winds, chronic civil wars, and grim Islamic fundamentalism, it is not the ideal place for a traveler with a U.S. passport. Tayler finds genuine danger in many guises, from drunken soldiers to a thieving teenage mob. But he also encounters patience and generosity of a sort found only in Africa. Traveling overland by the same rickety means used by the local people--tottering, overfilled buses, bush taxis with holes in the floor, disgruntled camels--he uses his fluency in French and Arabic (the region's lingua francas) to connect with them. Tayler is able to illuminate the roiling, enigmatic cultures of the Sahel as no other Western writer could.

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