You're headed for a safari into 18 counties that form Florida's waistline. There are frenetic destinations overrun with concrete and kids paid minimum wages to swelter inside animal costumes. But vast tracts have been set aside for adventurers and for the flora and fauna that were here before us. You can explore wildlife refuges and forests, pristine canoe trails, and several of the Southeast's best dive sites. You'll find plenty of places to spank a golf ball. How about flying an F-16 at warp speed? Or hurling yourself out of a perfectly safe airplane with nothing between you and the ever-af