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Kimono: Fashioning Culture

por Liza Dalby

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309784,550 (4.31)4
The colorful and stylized kimono - the national garment of Japan - expresses not only Japanese aesthetic sensibilities but the soul of Japan as well. Largely discarded by men a century ago in the name of modernity and efficiency, kimono is still worn by many women on formal occasions and by some women, such as geisha, in their daily work. Elegantly anachronistic, kimono still retains a powerful hold on the Japanese heart and mind. In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book, Liza Dalby, author of the highly acclaimed Geisha, traces the history of kimono - its uses, aesthetics, and social meanings - to explore Japanese culture. Drawing on a variety of period texts (such as seventeenth-century kimono pattern books), Dalby creates vivid pictures of kimono and those who wore them through the centuries. She discusses the development of the kimono robe from its Chinese origins two thousand years ago to its assimilation as the national dress of Japan. Of particular note are the elaborate twelfth-century robes that reveal a uniquely Japanese sensibility mirrored in the literature and painting of the Heian period; the consumerist mentality and profusion of design occurring at the beginning of the Tokugawa era; the redefinition of kimono in the nineteenth century as Japanese had to deal seriously with the dress of the outlandish West; the interpretations and uses of kimono today; and the precise rules of kimono dressing and what they signify in terms of gender, age, class, and occasion. Dalby concludes with personal reflections on the subject of geisha and kimono. An engaging mix of fashion history and social anthropology, this lively book demonstrates in a new way how clothing fashions can illuminate our understanding of culture.… (mais)
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The colorful and stylized kimono--the national garment of Japan--expresses not only Japanese aesthetic sensibilities but the soul of Japan as well. This book traces the history of kimono--its uses, aesthetics, and social meanings--to explore Japanese culture.

An engaging mix of fashion history and social anthropology, this lively and scholarly book demonstrates in a new way how clothing can illuminate our understanding of culture.
  Centre_A | Nov 27, 2020 |
I was at a museum in Japan that had some antique kimono, and I thought, you know, I would really like to read a book about the history and cultural meaning of kimono.

This book could not have been more exactly what I wanted if I had specially commissioned it from the author. Totally fascinating.

Maybe I'll actually try to read all of [book: The Tale of Genji] now that I know what all the seasonal color combinations mean.

Haha, just kidding. No one actually reads the whole Tale of Genji!
( )
  JenneB | Apr 2, 2013 |
I was lucky enough to get this book signed by the author. It's half-fashion analysis, half-historical analysis of wafuku in Japan. Highly recommended. ( )
  senbei | Dec 18, 2011 |
In probably one of the best English-language surveys of the history of the kimono, Liza Dalby is meticulous at describing the evolution of the clothing form throughout the centuries in Japan: not just the change in the physical form of the clothing, though, but also in its cultural status and symbolism. It's now a little out-of-date and could do with updating, but as an introduction to the subject in English, it's the best one you're going to find. ( )
  siriaeve | Jun 12, 2009 |
As a collector of Japanese textiles, particularly obi and haori (a form of kimono), I consider this book to be an absolute necessity. Liza Dalby, an anthropologist, discerns Japanese culture through its clothing. She describes here the uses of style, fabric, color and pattern to differentiate status, season, age, etc. There is a rigidity to the kimono style which, while confining, also forces both the creator and the wearer to find avenues of individuality.
  lilithcat | Oct 16, 2005 |
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For John Stevenson, twice godfather to this book
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The kimono proclaims itself the national costume of Japan and is duly recognized as such throughout the world.
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The colorful and stylized kimono - the national garment of Japan - expresses not only Japanese aesthetic sensibilities but the soul of Japan as well. Largely discarded by men a century ago in the name of modernity and efficiency, kimono is still worn by many women on formal occasions and by some women, such as geisha, in their daily work. Elegantly anachronistic, kimono still retains a powerful hold on the Japanese heart and mind. In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book, Liza Dalby, author of the highly acclaimed Geisha, traces the history of kimono - its uses, aesthetics, and social meanings - to explore Japanese culture. Drawing on a variety of period texts (such as seventeenth-century kimono pattern books), Dalby creates vivid pictures of kimono and those who wore them through the centuries. She discusses the development of the kimono robe from its Chinese origins two thousand years ago to its assimilation as the national dress of Japan. Of particular note are the elaborate twelfth-century robes that reveal a uniquely Japanese sensibility mirrored in the literature and painting of the Heian period; the consumerist mentality and profusion of design occurring at the beginning of the Tokugawa era; the redefinition of kimono in the nineteenth century as Japanese had to deal seriously with the dress of the outlandish West; the interpretations and uses of kimono today; and the precise rules of kimono dressing and what they signify in terms of gender, age, class, and occasion. Dalby concludes with personal reflections on the subject of geisha and kimono. An engaging mix of fashion history and social anthropology, this lively book demonstrates in a new way how clothing fashions can illuminate our understanding of culture.

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