In the early 1930s Ralph Brewster was told by an Italian archaeologist that "of course there are women on Mount Athos!" so decided that he should see for himself. This short book describes his journey on foot, by mule and by rowing boat around the Holy Mountain, visiting all the twenty four monasteries and some of the smaller settlements. He had planned to visit with friends but they cried off so he sought out a companion to help him with his photographic equipment and other luggage. He picked up Iorgos, a young Greek who looked "like an Arab beauty from Africa". Iorgos had lived a crowded life as actor, dancer, singer, journalist, tailor and sailor. He had a wide circle of acquaintances and, it turned out, questionable morals. Brewster tells us that 90% of Greek males, like most Levantines, are bisexual. Great friendships between men and boys are, unlike in classic times, rare, relations being "purely animal". He claims that it is highly creditable to take the active role whereas the passive partner is looked down on. Iorgos had plenty of girl friends but on this trip was ready to have affairs with people of his own sex. Wikipedia describes Brewster as gay but here he claims to have found Iorgos useful in finding out intimate details of the monks' lives as well as allowing him to escape the attentions of the monks without causing offence "leaving Iorgos to take his place". Money apparently often changed hands.

Brewster gives good descriptions of the landscape and architecture as well as telling the reader about the history and rituals of the monasteries. He also has many anecdotes from individual monks about their reasons for adopting the monastic life. The book has several appendices about history, statistics, organisation and architecture as well as a 'TripAdvisor' page noting the quality of food and guest rooms, the number of bugs and the state of the lavatories. The tradition of hospitality is universal and usually free although some monasteries expect a tip to the gatekeeper.

I read the book while looking at Google Earth which is helpful for orientation although, sadly, the absence of roads deprives us of street views of the buildings.

A glimpse into another world, one that most people will never experience. Athos is not a place most would want to live (and it is not a place where women are allowed at all), but it makes for very interesting reading. ( )